This programme has been on for so long that there is a temptation to take it for granted but if you have caught any of the repeats of the original format with Fern Britton you will have seen just how much it has evolved.

Does it show us how to make fabulous meals in minutes? Well, I'm sure we couldn't all copy everyone of them - and certainly not in 20 minutes - but if it makes you think "I could have a go at that" about just one dish, then it is serving its purpose.

Does it help provide alternatives to 'fast food'? Yes, definitely. It shows that good food doesn't have to take hours to prepare. Sometimes I think that it cuts corners on some dishes which should have a little bit more love and attention (which the pace of the show doesn't allow for) but then again, there are hundreds of cookery programmes out there which will show you how to make them at leisure.

Is it entertaining? It is always interesting to see just what can be achieved by the chefs and it's good to see celebrities outside their comfort zones. The surface level of entertainment for casual viewers can depend on who is in the kitchen and how they interact with the others in the studio. It always takes food seriously but injects humour into the act of cooking.

And Ainsley? Well, quite simply, he is the best host on TV. He effortlessly converses with guests, chefs and audience members, putting everyone at their ease. He jokes and chats but keeps the show on track by his invaluable assistance to the chefs, his consideration of safety and his canny awareness of camera angles, making sure that the food is never obscured. He is unobtrusively knowledgable - although a chef himself, he often puts himself in the role of novice to ensure that the viewer understands it all. The amazing pace of this show is made possible by his professionalism.

Recently the BBC has been showing Food Poker in the same slot. I watched it with some enjoyment but when Ready Steady Cook returned in December the difference in quality and entertainment between the two was evident, with Ready Steady Cook the clear winner.

The cooking programme on television seems to be being reinvented almost constantly but sometimes the old ideas are among the best.